Greece

We have visited Greece several times; we visited Crete in 1997 and always hoped to see more of Greece, which we did in September 2003, and twice in 2007.

In 1997 we had visited Crete and loved it, arranging our holiday through Simply Travel. The flights were at reasonable times and on time, the transfers were by taxi and the couriers experienced and efficient.

In 2003 we restricted our budget. A local travel agent suggested Kosmar offered some of the best deals and after consideration we booked with them. They save money by using night flights and coaches for transfers. The staff, though less experienced, were pleasant and the accommodation was on a par with what we had experienced on Crete. We wanted to be able to visit Athens while also relaxing on a beach away from the main tourist areas when the mood took us. We settled on the small island of Angistri, an hour from Athens' port of Pireaus, popular with Atheanians at the weekend but otherwise largely overlooked as a tourist destination. We flew into Athens airport in the very early morning and were held at the airport until it was time to be taken by coach to Piraeus in time to catch the first morning ferry to Angistri. The independent traveler can catch bus E96, which runs half-hourly day and night from airport to harbour. Inter-island travel will mean using the extensive network of ferries and once there, buses serve even the remotest villages at least daily.

Early in 2007 we returned to Crete for a quiet spring break on the recommendation of the local travel agent who assured us that Koutouloufari was a quiet out of the way village. In fact it is on the northern coast of the island, overlooking Hersonissos with it's 'vibrant' Blackpool style night-life and what was once a separate village is now the extended urbanisation of it. However it was May, still early enough in the season that we were spared most of the worst aspects of the Bristish abroad, mainly by keeping to the village and the mountains away from the coast and the tourist 'strip'.

Later in 2007 we took an autumn break to Skopelos, again chosing from the Kosmar brochure. The journey was via Skiathos as there is no airport on Skopelos. This has the disadvantage of a very long travel day both going and returning, waiting at the harbour side for ferries which was quite pleasant and at the hot dusty airport which was not. However it was worth the journey when we realised that Skopelos was a quiet backwater that for many tourists requires just too much effort to get to. We were very pleased with our apartment overlooking the town and the bay and it's choice of wonderful places to eat. An additional diversion was to 'spot the celebrity' as the filming of Mama Mia was in progress.

Everywhere has rooms to rent and from lunchtime onward every ferry was met by landlords - or their children - keen to fill any space they had. We always found Greeks friendly and helpful. Most people that we came into contact with spoke some English although a few simple phrases of Greek have helped in more out of the way places.

Greece has the second highest accident rate in the EU after Portugal and drink-driving is also a major problem. Car rental is expensive although it is possible to haggle a deal in the off season and all tourist areas have mopeds and motorcycles to rent. Crash helmets, long trousers and shirt sleeves are rarely worn and on the poor quality roads this often courts disaster. Never the less, with common sense, we have been able to use motorcycles to visit some places well off the beaten track and to sample a little of 'real' Greece.

Athens

We took two day trips from our island hide away to visit Athens. All the main points of interest are grouped together within walking distance of each other in the centre of the city and could easily be seen in just one day by an enthusiastic tourist. We chose to split our visit to allow time for attending Sunday service at St. Andrew's International Church before we set off on our voyage of discovery. To reach the city centre from Piraeus we took the fast newly refurbished metro.

	The metro is clean, efficient and easy to use.
	Leaving St. Andrew's Church at the foot of Likavitos Hill gave our first view across Athens towards the Acropolis.
	From the ancient Agora or market place the Acropolis is a steep climb. Good walking shoes or trainers and a bottle of water are essential in the heat.
	The Agora is, like most ancient sites in Greece, littered with various artifacts. Mill stones and ruined buildings in the foreground, the Temple of Hephaistos in the background.
	The Aeropagos or Hill of Mars was the site of the judicial court and where the Apostle Paul preached his sermon proclaiming the unknown god - Acts 17:22.
	From the Aeropagos looking up towards the Acropolis. The scaffolding and restoration help to keep this panorama as it would have been in Paul's day.
	The Erechtheion where both Athena and Poseidon - Erechtheus were worshiped. The Porch of the Caryatids is supported by reproduction columns of six Karyai maidens.
	The Parthenon east face. Although never as sacred as the Erechtheion, the Parthenon's original role as artistic showcase and treasury is still fulfilled today.
	The Parthenon west face. Work is always ongoing to repair the ravages of weather and ageing. Tourists are limited to the outside of the temple.
	Theatre of Dionysos, on the southern side of the Acropolis. The 17,000 seat theatre is best appreciated from above. 20 of the original 64 tiers of seats survive.
	The Odeion of Herodes Atticus is a second-century Roman theatre. It has been restored and is used during the summer festival for performances of music and classical drama.
	The 1896 Olympic Stadium rebuilt on the site of a Roman and earlier Greek stadium.
	The stadium seen in close up during refurbishment for the 2004 Olympics.
	The Temple of Olympian Zeus, the largest temple in ancient Greece is now a ruin. Just 15 of the 104 original pillars still stand and the statues of Zeus and Hadrian, who built it, have long been lost. The nearby Hadrian's Arch is complete, however.
	Evzónes, not regular army soldiers but an elite corps, stand sentry duty outside the Presidential Palace on Iródhou Attikoú. Their costume is a stylized version of traditional mountain costume.
	Evzónes can also been seen in Sýndagma square where they change guard on the hour at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the parliament building.
	Changing the guard involves the Evzónes performing an amazingly intricate and physically demanding series of marching steps, vaguely familiar to Monty Python fans!
	The parliament building and Sýndagma square. The square provides for every modern tourists' need and convenience and you could be in any modern city.
	Monastiráki square with it's collection of restaurants, stalls and kiosks also sells anything and everything but with the Adropolis in the background this could only be Athens. The Ottoman mosque now houses the Greek Folk Art museum.
	The flea market to the west of Monastiráki square. Allow an hour to browse the maze of shops, stalls and pavement sellers.
	The flea market.
	After a hard day sightseeing and shopping, a meal in a restaurant on Monastiráki square.